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Muli-the Last Shangri-La on the Blue Planet Hits:671    Addtime:2019-08-29 09:36:04
Originality: Shitan Photography Network Teacher Wu Qiong Aihuizhou Tourism Photography 2018-12-04

Note: In March 1928, Joseph Locke, an American explorer, set out from Muli, crossed Daocheng, Aden and other places, through Shanodoji, Yangmaiyong and Xiannairi, and went deep into the Gonggaling region, finally to Kangding, the city of love songs.

After crossing the Rock Line twice, he published articles and photographs in the National Geographic Journal of the United States. James Hilton, an American writer, wrote his famous novel, The Lost Horizon, in 1933. People call the "paradise" described in the novel "Shangri-La", which has aroused a worldwide upsurge in the search for Shangri-La.

That night, sleeping in a tent, I had a very strange dream. In my dream, I went back to the fairy tale land surrounded by high mountains - - Muli. She was so beautiful and peaceful. I also dreamed of the gold and wealth of the Middle Ages. I dreamed of buttered mutton and pine torches. Everything was so comfortable, comfortable and beautiful. .
I would rather die in this beautiful mountain than in the cold bed of the hospital.

Joseph Ivor Locke

I think many people have been to Lijiang, Lugu Lake and so on. Speaking of Lijiang and Dali, it seems that the world of bars, romances, encounters and Backpackers is full of pictures of dazed, imaginative couples on vacation beside Erhai Lake.

So when it comes to Lijiang, most men are experiencing hormonal surges. Perhaps, in every man's heart, there is a beautiful woman's dream of rivers and lakes; just like the porch bridge complex hidden in women's heart, I hope that one day I can have an unforgettable love encounter, fill the blank of life, and meet Robert in life in the lost time, like Francesca, to have a beautiful and sentimental love. Love.

It's no wonder that I understand that the current world is too rigid and too vulgar.

And how do I, as a surrealist, dream? Hold a bamboo pool and go deeper into the grass? Or a ship full of stars, singing in the stars?

I can't do Xu Zhimo after all. Even though I have Joseph Locke's risk factor deep in my heart.

After consulting many opinions, I decided to cross a section of the Rock Line from Muli to Lugu Lake. Although the road was not good, the scenery was beautiful. It is the last center of Shangri-La, the legendary blue planet. My fellow travelers didn't know what was special about this trip at first.

But what I didn't expect was that besides the scenery along the way, in addition to experiencing the fright of the locust area, we had an unexpected surprise. We entered Lijiazui, the last matriarchal clan tribe in China. (Special thanks to Mr. Ran Muli)

The Maternal Clan Tribe in Lijiazui is the best preserved place for the matriarchal clan family culture and walking marriage custom in China, and it is also the heritage center of Daba culture. When we rushed into this untouched, primitive and simple tribe, we could imagine the shock in our hearts. There is such a group of people living on the edge of modern civilization and still living in matriarchal clan society. In this tribe which retained the primitive marriage custom, I saw the light of love, and interpreted the seemingly backward but pure and beautiful love relationship in primitive society: men are responsible for sowing, women are responsible for nurturing, the best love in the world should belong to: we do not live under the same roof, but I want to live for you. Affection for life. When I am by your side, you are my whole world. When I am away, may the whole world treat you kindly.

July 14, Chengdu - Xichang
Okay, back to the legendary journey. On July 14, we left Chengdu with 13 people, together with four old friends who met us in Chengdu. We left Chengdu with four cars and began to walk along the Yaxi Expressway. The road passes through the famous Niba Mountain Tunnel. Niba Mountain Tunnel is located at the intersection of Qinghai-Tibet Plateau and Sichuan Basin, with a total length of 10006 meters. Out of the tunnel entrance is the magnificent and beautiful scenery of Hanyuan County.
We arrived at the Xichang Satellite Launch Center around five o'clock. To our surprise, the famous satellite launch base in the world is not as mysterious and remote as we imagined. Despite the heavy guards at the entrance, ordinary tourists can still buy tickets to visit the launch tower at close range. The launch looks like an ordinary mountain village in Huizhou.

Later, after popularizing science, it was known that Xichang's unique geographical location and stable climate conditions were the main reasons for its being a satellite launch base. Such a seemingly insignificant place, however, represents the glory of China's space flight and bears the dream of mankind to go into space. To the Chinese astronauts who have been unknown and dedicated to the Gobi Mountains since the founding of the Republic!

The launch center is not far from Xichang. Xichang is the capital of Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province. It belongs to the tropical plateau monsoon climate. It is warm and cool all the year round. It is known as Xiaochuncheng. At the same time, it is also the world-famous Sun City, Moon City and Space City, known as "a City inhabiting spring". From this point of view, as a satellite launch base, Xichang is also in good time and place.

Xichang at night is not noisy. In the sweaty summer days of our hometown, Xichang's pot barbecue is a unique scene in the snack street of the night market. Let the friends in the circle of small partners, direct addiction! It's a bit like last winter when I queued up on the streets of Harbin in the minus twenty degrees to buy a Madeleine ice hockey.

However, at the same time, we were shocked to see that I sent the same day Xichang 15 to 18 degrees of temperature screenshots, we all said: envy can not come.

On the night of Xichang, the most worthwhile place for photographers is Torch Square. But that night there was some light rain, many people took the machine to sleep, I was not too dedicated, had to pack a taxi to roam around the city, found that the torch Plaza is still some of the attractions, but unfortunately the camera was put in the room to sleep, had to click a few mobile phones, rainy plaza, torch sculpture reflection is particularly special. Beautiful, let people linger. Back in the taxi, several beautiful women in the same trade said they were shivering with cold. If I don't come back, I will leave behind to feed the dog Yunyun. Ha-ha, what about the good revolutionary friendship?

July 15, Xichang-Muli

There is a Qionghai Wetland Park in Xichang. We went to see it in the morning. The wetland is very beautiful. There are many tropical vegetation in it. Flowers are blooming and fragrant. It feels like Hainan.

In the morning of Qionghai, the morning fog is winding and the boat is rippling. From a distance, it looks like a group of water birds swimming freely on the water surface, which is very beautiful. Living in a hotel around the lake should be a beautiful experience. But the price is higher. Wetlands cover a large area, and several wooden gates are separated from the charging scenic spots. It seems that we need room cards to open them, but with my persistent three inch tongue, we can pretend to be hotel guests and let the security guards open the doors.

We left Xichang at about 10 o'clock and arrived at Yanyuan County for dinner around 1 noon. As the song goes, the apples in Yanyuan are very delicious, but unfortunately they have been on their way and have not stayed too long. When we arrived at Muli County Town, it was nearly five o'clock. Although the sky was still shining here, we still wanted to go to Muli Temple or Cun Du Haizi (Chang Haizi), but it took three or four hours to go back and forth. Teacher Ran suggested that everyone rest and walk in Muli County Town.

When I first arrived at Muli County, I felt that the county was built on a half-hill slope, scattered high and low, bathed in the sunset, like a mysterious castle in the Middle Ages. Full of minority customs. The entrance from the transit highway to the county town is not obvious, the curve is steep, it has to circle up, inadvertently opened. Muli County is not big, but it is one of the only two Tibetan autonomous counties in the country, with a population of 130,000. The average altitude is more than 3100 meters, but the relative height difference is 4480 meters. There are few restaurants and hotels in the county town. When I found a square to put a small plane in, many people gathered around and looked, presumably for them, it was a new thing.
July 16 Muli-Lugu Lake
The next morning, after breakfast, we went to Kangwu Monastery first, and then to Cundahaizi. Tiangong was not beautiful, until Changhaizi, it was foggy and raining all the time. Climbing to the top of the slope, the wind was still very strong, and it was very cold. We took a few random pictures and went to the direction of Muli Monastery.

The road to Muli Monastery is winding and winding, but the newly built road is in good condition.

The Muli Monastery, situated on a high platform and with great momentum, was once one of the largest Huang Lama temples in Kangba Tibetan area. Locke's travels are also heavily mentioned. Locke was here, with the help of King Muli, and eventually completed Aden's expedition. Muli is called the garden of God's browsing by Locke. Standing in the Muli Temple, overlooking the magnificent mountains and rivers, and the mysterious Muli Kingdom, Locke was amazed.

After the end of the Muli Temple, we went to visit this primitive tribe with the direction that Mr. Ran gave us. We traveled through the forest through the clouds, all the way through the tropical rain forest, the trees along the road were covered with flocculent silk. Peer fish often walk along the border between Yunnan and Myanmar. He tells us that it is called Tree Beard. Only if the environment is not polluted, can it grow in a good ecological place.

However, on the way here, when we got off to take pictures, we were attacked by drought locusts. In a matter of two or three minutes, six drought locusts crawled on the legs of a sister in the same trade. Fortunately, it was found and cleared in time. After arriving at Lugu Lake, the legs and feet were soaked in salt water. Fortunately, everything was all right.

The road to Lijiazui is not difficult to find. It is tens of kilometers from the main road to Lugu Lake. Near the village, there is a bumpy sandy road which is not easy to walk. It's better to be a four-wheel drive off-road. There are streams in the fields beside the road, like my hometown in the south of the Yangtze River. However, it is the descendants of the Mongolian people who live here.

The village was so quiet that there was hardly any smoke in it. Walking inside, I saw three or two girls playing beside the haystack. Their faces and bodies were somewhat untidy, and they looked at us unexpectedly with some strange eyes and some timid expressions. Female companions of the same trade took out some candy snacks for them, and some were too timid to stretch out their hands. Only a lazy cat jumped around and looked at us cautiously, as if he were the owner here.

At present, the tribe is divided into two groups, north and south, with a total of more than 20 families and more than 500 people, all of whom belong to the Japanese branch of the Mongolian nationality. There are 28 families with the largest population, ranging from more than 10 to more than 20 people on average. They live a married life of men and women, and all their children are brought up by their mothers. The only men in the family were their brothers (uncles) and children, who believed in an oral religion called Daba ritual. If one of the tribes needs to do house and other things, all the men in the tribe come to help.

Today we visited here, just in time to meet the village official Zasi, under his leadership, Mosuo women dressed up to greet our group of friends from afar, women are warm and generous, men are old-fashioned hot sausages, singing and dancing, warmly invite us to drink and play crown celebration. On their faces, both men and women singing songs and teenagers who had retired to Buddhism at the age of 15 were filled with heartfelt smiles.

Tashi also took us to visit a large family with some family traditions, and let the master take us to see the beautiful murals handed down from our ancestors. The contents of the murals probably depict the history of the tribe's migration from Mongolia. The grandfather of the family seems to have some experience and good spirits. When he left, he always watched us in the attic.
At the beginning, I strung around the village and went into the courtyard of a Mosu people. I met a young mother whose child was less than a year old. Coincidentally, it was her married man who came to her house for the night when I went. On weekdays, they all stay at their homes. Sometimes they only come in at night or when the woman's family has something to do to help them. Despite having children, the married man is still shy and hides behind the curtain in the west house and never comes out again.

In the courtyard, three generations of women, together with a fourth generation of babies, are four generations living together. They smiled kindly at me and looked curiously at me playing with my camera to take pictures of them. They answered my questions generously and interestingly.

It was learned from the conversation that although the tribe still follows the tradition of walking marriages, it is not like everyone imagines that a woman has several men. Most men and women will end up in the same boat. Although they don't live together, they keep their promises and keep each other's life. Their harmonious and beautiful sexual relationship makes me feel sad. They also look at their children.

What are the advantages of marriage in our civilized world? After getting married, I feel that I have become an appendage and private property of the other party. There are slight differences, complaints and comparisons. Many times, marriage has degenerated into a boring contract in modern society.

Lijiazui, at present, seems to be somewhat barren and backward. The house is dark and rumbling, the ground is uneven, few modern objects are seen, or the ornaments of primitive tribes. I don't know why the handsome Yang Jiaci chose to go to Kunming as a monk. But one thing I can feel is that people here live simply and happily.

The men of the Mahu nationality are rough and bold, and the women of the Mahu nationality are graceful, although they are in charge of housework at home.

Fortunately, I am lucky to walk into this fairy-tale village. Although I can't do anything for them, my heart is full of blessings and thoughts.

I hope that Tashi will lead the villagers of Lijiazui to become rich and lead them to a better life. Thank you for your company and guidance, and sincerely wish Mosuo men and women happiness forever!

At about 7:20 p.m. on July 16, 2018, we walked out of Muli and came to Lugu Lake. Everyone was very happy. Lugu Lake is dimly dusk. The light gradually illuminates the blue lake. Finally, we come to the beautiful Lugu lakeside in our hearts and minds.

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